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In recent years, surf kayaking has been a rapidly growing activity. With it has emerged a surf paddling culture, complete with its icons, lingo, and worldwide competitions. If you visit the coast, especially where the swells are big, you will probably see kayaks in the water right along side surfboards.

Surf kayaking provides yet another way to become addicted to paddling. The great thing about surfing is that it is enjoyed by both whitewater, and sea kayakers and you can pretty much use the gear you already have.

Surfing is FUN! If you are planning a coastal getaway, be sure to bring your boat.

When is the best surfing?
Generally the days following storms provide the best (largest) waves. Winds blowing from the ocean to the shore also can add to a wave's strength, whereas wind moving from land to ocean will diminish a wave's strength. If the wave is small, the wind will reduce its effect, making it less surfable. If the wave is large, the winds can hold the waves up before they break, providing a steeper wave face and more exciting ride. Additionally, low tide usually offers the best surfing because the angle of the beach at low tide is usually less steep than at high tide. Take a look at tide charts for your area before surfing.

Do I need any gear like lifejackets?
It is important to wear lifejackets; currents can easily take you out if you flip. Lifejackets make good cushions for your body when you slam into and slide at high speeds on the sand. If you are there to surf for sport, as opposed to just landing or launching, it is also wise to wear a helmet. Some type of sandal or shoe also helps the feet absorb the impact if you should pirouette into the sand!

Helmets
Helmets
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What kind of boat is best for surfing?
Strictly personal preference. What represents easy turning / sweet carving / high maneuverability for one person may be thought of as a total lack of challenge for another. Open canoeists can surf the same challenging waves as sit-on-tops with equal success and fun. One quick maintenance note: If you use a river kayak with sliding metal foot peg mechanisms, it is wise to spray the mechanicals with something like WD40. After your done surfing, alternate more lubricant with a strong dousing with a garden hose to get the sand out and the pegs moving freely. Otherwise the sand and salt will cause the foot pegs to lock permanently in position.

How do I launch into the surf?
If launching by yourself, or if you are the last person in a group to launch, try to set your kayak on the beach so it faces directly into the waves. You should be in the water just enough that you can push yourself off, yet not be knocked about by waves as you are securing your sprayskirt. Knuckle-walk your boat into the surf using one of the larger waves to partially support your boat. If you have assistance, you can launch slightly further out as your friend steadies the boat.

As you are getting ready, be studying the wave sets coming in. Once you launch, paddle hard. I have received comments supporting two different schools of thought for making progress through large waves. One maintains that when a good size wave comes at you, paddle fast directly toward it, and then quickly lean forward in tucked ready-to-roll position when the wave hits. This presents the absolutely smallest area of resistance and eliminates a direct face and chest hit by the wave or paddle (and places your paddle in a rolling position in the event that this relatively unstable position results in being flipped).

The other school of thought suggests that one should keep paddling very hard and try to time the strokes so that at the last minute you can bend forward, but instead of going into a roll position, reach forward with the paddle into the wave with the paddle shaft at a downward angle in relation the axis of the boat so that if the wave catches the paddle, it will be pushed downward instead of up-and over. This way you can keep paddling, and can maintain thrust while the wave hits. In either case, once it has passed, resume paddling out. It is very important to stay perpendicular to the waves, so that you don't get turned sideways (broached). It is also necessary to have sufficient (maximum) forward speed as the wave arrives so that you don't start surfing backwards.

Lifejackets
Lifejackets
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If your roll is completely reliable, and there are no rocks, you have the option of turning upside down and dragging deeper water with your paddle to avoid the wave's impact, but practice this with smaller waves first because of the unusual ways that the currents can pull on your arms—injury is possible. Also, be aware of the fact that saltwater in the eyes can be very distracting.

There is often a "soup" zone between the waves crashing on the beach and the breaking waves further out, which can be used to check spray skirts, catch a breath, etc. As you are going out, start glancing back at the beach for landmarks to establish your drift and/or your return area.

What happens when I get past the breakers?
It is important to have very relaxed and loose hips. Be flexible as the waves pass underneath you. Waves collapse and explode unpredictably, and staying loose is a big help. Use short strokes with a lot of quick braces thrown in. This is where round-bottom boats are actually more stable than flat-bottom boats (as opposed to the reverse in calm flat water).

How do I paddle through the surf to land safely?
First analyze the waves. Are they dumping, spilling, or surging? If they lose energy as they wash up on the beach, no problem.

If they are dumping on the beach, you will hear a crashing or booming kind of sound. The waves will have a streaking pattern and often display water splashing into the air. Avoid landing through these waves. They can do some serious damage.

If the waves are spilling, there is a nice crest that gradually breaks further down the wave as it comes in. The wave is spilling and should have manageable surfing characteristics. Those waves are typically wide and have a continual rather than booming sound.

Observe the wave sets and try to anticipate the beginning of a relatively calm period. Many people like to catch the last wave of a set, so that when they lose the wave, they will not be clobbered by the next wave. While paddling in, try to stay "between" the sets if possible. When approaching the area where waves are breaking on the shore, pick a wave and paddle in behind it, following as closely as possible.

Some waves will catch you, so try to surf them in. Rudder with your paddle to maintain control. It is important to lean towards the wave, and raise the knee (and the side of the boat) that is further from the wave. If you are exactly perpendicular to a large wave, you may find yourself doing an inadvertent ender. Use your paddle to maintain a slight angle to the wave.

Footwear
Footwear
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If you loose your angle and find yourself broaching the wave, you can surf the wave sideways by leaning into it fairly hard and bracing on the wave with your paddle. You may be able to avoid obstacles by paddling forward or backward while on/in the wave. If you fail to lift the shore side knee or don't lean into the wave, you will get window-shaded. It is extremely important to tuck forward into a roll-setup position if you ender or flip—you will be in a much safer position should you impact on the sand.

Another way (safe and conservative method) to approach the beach is to paddle backwards. When a big wave approaches start paddling forward in time to contact it with speed, then tuck forward and "needle" the wave, presenting as small an area of resistance as possible. After it passes, resume paddling backwards toward the shore.

How do I catch waves to surf for sport (as opposed to trying to just get in safely)?
Establish a position in the waves, making sure that it is clear of other surfers and that swimmers aren't going to be slayed in your path. Note relevant rocks, piers, and corral reef formations. Start counting waves in each set and get a feel for the pattern. When you see one you like, paddle hard to acquire maximum speed, and lean forward as the wave arrives.

You will have to use a ruddering action with your paddle to maintain your desired direction or angle to the wave. Keep the beachside of your gunnel raised and lean into the wave. Use your paddle for steering control and bracing simultaneously. The best rides are right at or in the edge of where the wave is spilling. While aiming the boat slightly away from the breaking area, maintain that relative position to the sliding spilling crest of the wave.

While paddling back out to catch the next wave, be wary of other boaters or surfboards coming at you. Be prepared to dodge them and even turn upside down if a collision is imminent. Better yet, stay far away from what you perceive could be their path before such actions are necessary.

In The Surf
In The Surf
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How do I exit the boat (gracefully) when landing?
With fiberglass kayaks, as your depth approaches a foot or less, observe the last wave passing by (the one you just followed in), and immediately pop the sprayskirt off and hop out quickly and smoothly on the ocean side of the boat. Getting out on the beach side can result in the next wave driving the boat into your legs. Quickly grab the boat to carry / drag it onto the shore in a controlled manner. You may want to lift the ocean side of the cockpit rim upward momentarily to keep water from entering as the next wave comes along. If you are paddling a plastic kayak you will probably prefer to just paddle hard up onto the shore, and alternately drive your fists into the sand to hold your position as the wave recedes with permitting each new wave to push you up further onto the beach. Then remove sprayskirt and exit the boat.

What are some of the safety concerns?
Again, always paddle in areas that have spilling waves as opposed to dumping waves. You can get hurt there, as well as damage gear. Also don't hang out in the waves breaking on the shore for the same reasons.

A lifejacket and helmet is highly recommended. Sand abrasion is serious stuff. Booties will give some protection against foot pegs when you experience the sudden impact of pirouetting in the sand. Wet or dry suits are highly recommended should you exit the boat some distance from shore.

If you flip, tuck forward quickly. Face plants are no fun in either rocks or sand.
Ask local surfers about nasty tides and currents. Be aware of high vs. low tide effects. Be aware of low-pressure systems coming in on the backs of high-pressure systems (wind direction and wave characteristic change).

Paddling with a friend is recommended.

Sharing the surf
When you join the crowd, consider yourself at the back of the line. When a good wave comes, several people may start, but the one closest to the edge of the breaking part of the wave is considered to have the right of way and is in the best position to surf that wave. Don't try to drop in on a wave. If someone is already on a wave, NEVER try to ride it.

Kayak Basics Book
Kayak Basics
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Be cognizant of the fact that folks with surfboards usually have to work a little harder to get on a wave, and will be starting out a few seconds earlier. Don't try to "out-race" a surfer for the wave and create a conflict—be cool.

Boat control around other surfers is critical. If you don't have boat control, find an empty beach and work on it.

When paddling out through the waves, watch for incoming surfers. Paddle out through the white stuff (yes, it is harder than the smoother areas) as you approach people surfing in, so that you do not position yourself to cut the surfer off or cause the surfer to modify his line to avoid you.

EVEN THE BEST BOATERS CAN FIND THEMSELVES IN SERIOUS TROUBLE ON THE MILDEST OF DAYS IN THE OCEAN. PLEASE BE AWARE THAT EACH BOATER TAKES FULL RESPONSIBILITY FOR HIS OR HER OWN SAFETY, AND IS TOTALLY RESPONSIBLE FOR ASSESSING THE DANGER LEVEL AND ACCEPTING THE CONSEQUENCES OF PARTICIPATING IN THIS SPORT.




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