
In recent years, surf kayaking has been a rapidly growing
activity. With it has emerged a surf paddling culture, complete
with its icons, lingo, and worldwide competitions. If you visit
the coast, especially where the swells are big, you will probably
see kayaks in the water right along side surfboards.
Surf
kayaking provides yet another way to become addicted to paddling.
The great thing about surfing is that it is enjoyed by both whitewater,
and sea kayakers and you can pretty much use the gear you already
have.
Surfing is FUN! If you are planning a coastal getaway,
be sure to bring your boat.
When is the best surfing?
Generally the days following storms provide the best (largest)
waves. Winds blowing from the ocean to the shore also can add
to a wave's strength, whereas wind moving from land to ocean will
diminish a wave's strength. If the wave is small, the wind will
reduce its effect, making it less surfable. If the wave is large,
the winds can hold the waves up before they break, providing a
steeper wave face and more exciting ride. Additionally, low tide
usually offers the best surfing because the angle of the beach
at low tide is usually less steep than at high tide. Take a look
at tide charts for your area before surfing.
Do I need any gear like lifejackets?
It is important to wear lifejackets; currents can easily take
you out if you flip. Lifejackets make good cushions for your body
when you slam into and slide at high speeds on the sand. If you
are there to surf for sport, as opposed to just landing or launching,
it is also wise to wear a helmet. Some type of sandal or shoe
also helps the feet absorb the impact if you should pirouette
into the sand!
What kind of boat is best for surfing?
Strictly personal preference. What represents easy turning
/ sweet carving / high maneuverability for one person may be thought
of as a total lack of challenge for another. Open canoeists can
surf the same challenging waves as sit-on-tops with equal success
and fun. One quick maintenance note: If you use a river kayak
with sliding metal foot peg mechanisms, it is wise to spray the
mechanicals with something like WD40. After your done surfing,
alternate more lubricant with a strong dousing with a garden hose
to get the sand out and the pegs moving freely. Otherwise the
sand and salt will cause the foot pegs to lock permanently in
position.
How
do I launch into the surf?
If launching by yourself, or if you are the last person in
a group to launch, try to set your kayak on the beach so it faces
directly into the waves. You should be in the water just enough
that you can push yourself off, yet not be knocked about by waves
as you are securing your sprayskirt. Knuckle-walk your boat into
the surf using one of the larger waves to partially support your
boat. If you have assistance, you can launch slightly further
out as your friend steadies the boat.
As you are getting ready, be studying the wave sets
coming in. Once you launch, paddle hard. I have received comments
supporting two different schools of thought for making progress
through large waves. One maintains that when a good size wave
comes at you, paddle fast directly toward it, and then quickly
lean forward in tucked ready-to-roll position when the wave hits.
This presents the absolutely smallest area of resistance and eliminates
a direct face and chest hit by the wave or paddle (and places
your paddle in a rolling position in the event that this relatively
unstable position results in being flipped).
The other school of thought suggests that one should
keep paddling very hard and try to time the strokes so that at
the last minute you can bend forward, but instead of going into
a roll position, reach forward with the paddle into the wave with
the paddle shaft at a downward angle in relation the axis of the
boat so that if the wave catches the paddle, it will be pushed
downward instead of up-and over. This way you can keep paddling,
and can maintain thrust while the wave hits. In either case, once
it has passed, resume paddling out. It is very important to stay
perpendicular to the waves, so that you don't get turned sideways
(broached). It is also necessary to have sufficient (maximum)
forward speed as the wave arrives so that you don't start surfing
backwards.
If your roll is completely reliable, and there are
no rocks, you have the option of turning upside down and dragging
deeper water with your paddle to avoid the wave's impact, but
practice this with smaller waves first because of the unusual
ways that the currents can pull on your arms—injury is possible.
Also, be aware of the fact that saltwater in the eyes can be very
distracting.
There is often a "soup" zone between the
waves crashing on the beach and the breaking waves further out,
which can be used to check spray skirts, catch a breath, etc.
As you are going out, start glancing back at the beach for landmarks
to establish your drift and/or your return area.
What happens when I get past the breakers?
It is important to have very relaxed and loose hips. Be flexible
as the waves pass underneath you. Waves collapse and explode unpredictably,
and staying loose is a big help. Use short strokes with a lot
of quick braces thrown in. This is where round-bottom boats are
actually more stable than flat-bottom boats (as opposed to the
reverse in calm flat water).
How
do I paddle through the surf to land safely?
First analyze the waves. Are they dumping, spilling, or surging?
If they lose energy as they wash up on the beach, no problem.
If they are dumping on the beach, you will hear
a crashing or booming kind of sound. The waves will have a streaking
pattern and often display water splashing into the air. Avoid
landing through these waves. They can do some serious damage.
If the waves are spilling, there is a nice crest
that gradually breaks further down the wave as it comes in. The
wave is spilling and should have manageable surfing characteristics.
Those waves are typically wide and have a continual rather than
booming sound.
Observe the wave sets and try to anticipate the beginning of a
relatively calm period. Many people like to catch the last wave
of a set, so that when they lose the wave, they will not be clobbered
by the next wave. While paddling in, try to stay "between"
the sets if possible. When approaching the area where waves are
breaking on the shore, pick a wave and paddle in behind it, following
as closely as possible.
Some waves will catch you, so try to surf them in.
Rudder with your paddle to maintain control. It is important to
lean towards the wave, and raise the knee (and the side of the
boat) that is further from the wave. If you are exactly perpendicular
to a large wave, you may find yourself doing an inadvertent ender.
Use your paddle to maintain a slight angle to the wave.
If you loose your angle and find yourself broaching
the wave, you can surf the wave sideways by leaning into it fairly
hard and bracing on the wave with your paddle. You may be able
to avoid obstacles by paddling forward or backward while on/in
the wave. If you fail to lift the shore side knee or don't lean
into the wave, you will get window-shaded. It is extremely important
to tuck forward into a roll-setup position if you ender or flip—you
will be in a much safer position should you impact on the sand.
Another way (safe and conservative method) to approach
the beach is to paddle backwards. When a big wave approaches start
paddling forward in time to contact it with speed, then tuck forward
and "needle" the wave, presenting as small an area of
resistance as possible. After it passes, resume paddling backwards
toward the shore.
How
do I catch waves to surf for sport (as opposed to trying to
just get in safely)?
Establish a position in the waves, making sure that it is
clear of other surfers and that swimmers aren't going to be slayed
in your path. Note relevant rocks, piers, and corral reef formations.
Start counting waves in each set and get a feel for the pattern.
When you see one you like, paddle hard to acquire maximum speed,
and lean forward as the wave arrives.
You will have to use a ruddering action with your
paddle to maintain your desired direction or angle to the wave.
Keep the beachside of your gunnel raised and lean into the wave.
Use your paddle for steering control and bracing simultaneously.
The best rides are right at or in the edge of where the wave is
spilling. While aiming the boat slightly away from the breaking
area, maintain that relative position to the sliding spilling
crest of the wave.
While paddling back out to catch the next wave,
be wary of other boaters or surfboards coming at you. Be prepared
to dodge them and even turn upside down if a collision is imminent.
Better yet, stay far away from what you perceive could be their
path before such actions are necessary.
How do I exit the boat (gracefully) when landing?
With fiberglass kayaks, as your depth approaches a foot or
less, observe the last wave passing by (the one you just followed
in), and immediately pop the sprayskirt off and hop out quickly
and smoothly on the ocean side of the boat. Getting out on the
beach side can result in the next wave driving the boat into your
legs. Quickly grab the boat to carry / drag it onto the shore
in a controlled manner. You may want to lift the ocean side of
the cockpit rim upward momentarily to keep water from entering
as the next wave comes along. If you are paddling a plastic kayak
you will probably prefer to just paddle hard up onto the shore,
and alternately drive your fists into the sand to hold your position
as the wave recedes with permitting each new wave to push you
up further onto the beach. Then remove sprayskirt and exit the
boat.
What
are some of the safety concerns?
Again, always paddle in areas that have spilling waves as
opposed to dumping waves. You can get hurt there, as well as damage
gear. Also don't hang out in the waves breaking on the shore for
the same reasons.
A lifejacket and helmet is highly recommended. Sand
abrasion is serious stuff. Booties will give some protection against
foot pegs when you experience the sudden impact of pirouetting
in the sand. Wet or dry suits are highly recommended should you
exit the boat some distance from shore.
If
you flip, tuck forward quickly. Face plants are no fun in either
rocks or sand.
Ask local surfers about nasty tides and currents. Be aware
of high vs. low tide effects. Be aware of low-pressure systems
coming in on the backs of high-pressure systems (wind direction
and wave characteristic change).
Paddling with a friend is recommended.
Sharing the surf
When you join the crowd, consider yourself at the back of
the line. When a good wave comes, several people may start, but
the one closest to the edge of the breaking part of the wave is
considered to have the right of way and is in the best position
to surf that wave. Don't try to drop in on a wave. If someone
is already on a wave, NEVER try to ride it.
Be cognizant of the fact that folks with surfboards
usually have to work a little harder to get on a wave, and will
be starting out a few seconds earlier. Don't try to "out-race"
a surfer for the wave and create a conflict—be cool.
Boat control around other surfers is critical. If
you don't have boat control, find an empty beach and work on it.
When paddling out through the waves, watch for incoming
surfers. Paddle out through the white stuff (yes, it is harder
than the smoother areas) as you approach people surfing in, so
that you do not position yourself to cut the surfer off or cause
the surfer to modify his line to avoid you.
EVEN THE BEST BOATERS CAN FIND THEMSELVES IN
SERIOUS TROUBLE ON THE MILDEST OF DAYS IN THE OCEAN. PLEASE BE
AWARE THAT EACH BOATER TAKES FULL RESPONSIBILITY FOR HIS OR HER
OWN SAFETY, AND IS TOTALLY RESPONSIBLE FOR ASSESSING THE DANGER
LEVEL AND ACCEPTING THE CONSEQUENCES OF PARTICIPATING IN THIS
SPORT.